I have the G4 Doorbell, it’s worked well as doorbell and camera in both UniFi and Home Assistant.
I had no luck at all getting it to work with a chime though. I tried several different chimes and transformers and the chime would never work.
I ended up setting up automations to trigger device notifications and a bell sound on smart speakers to act as the chime instead.
I’m surprised they didn’t include an option to disable the backup encryption.
It’s a good feature to have but it’s probably overkill for users who only store backups locally. Encrypting backups increases security but also danger, lose the keys and lose the data. It should be up the user to decide on that tradeoff.
There are some Xiaomi Bluetooth temperature sensors available. I have a few of the LYWSD03MMC models. They are very cheap, have a LCD screen, and can also be flashed with custom firmware.
I have a few flashed with custom firmware and use them as general sensors around the home integrated with Home Assistant via ESPhome proxies.
I’m not sure how you could monitor them from both a phone and a Bluetooth proxy, but as they are so cheap and hackable they might be worth playing with.
Some Zigbee smart plugs and sockets have configurable calibration settings. I have some SmartThings smart plugs that have calibration settings, and I think the new IKEA smart plugs with power monitoring have calibration settings too.
There are some resellers providing generic Wi-Fi smart plugs pre flashed with Tasmota and calibrated correctly. Not sure where you are located but in the UK I can recommend Local Bytes.
I’ve also seen people recommend Shelly devices for power monitoring for accuracy. The Powercalc integration developer used to recommend Shelly devices for measuring power use of new devices to create Powercalc profiles.
I wouldn’t expect too much from accuracy from any of these smart devices though. They are intended for general consumer use to provide general ideas about energy use - they are not scientific instruments and probably shouldn’t be treated as such.
If you are looking to monitor homelab devices specifically perhaps you should look at a more professional/enterprise PDU instead.
Remember that to properly calibrate any of these devices you will also need an accurate reference device to calibrate against.
Power costs vary a lot around the world, depending on where OP lives every little saving can help.
That’s a gross assumption that people care about any of this.
For any form of federated community to be sustainable, its users have to care about that. Otherwise those communities will eventually be consumed by whichever instance gains the critical mass to close itself off and become another Twitter or Reddit.
To achieve the benefits of federation, users must be educated on principles of federation, not be obfuscated from them. The question is how the Fediverse can do that.
I haven’t done any channel optimisation so far, I probably should do. I have the P version of the Sonoff Zigbee dongle, I haven’t tried the E version.
I’ve also been careful with picking router devices. I’ve tried to avoid router devices that have poor reported compatibility with Aqara. There is a page/thread somewhere online where people were compiling lists of devices that do or don’t play nice with Aqara. IKEA devices apparently work very well with Aqara, I’ve been using their smart plugs wherever I can.
My Zigbee network also improved a lot when I set up some IKEA plugs in the loft. My house also has thick walls, but it seems Zigbee signal can propagate more easily through ceilings/floors.
Using quality brand batteries also seems to help a bit, at least from a battery life point of view.
I’m happy to see untracked energy devices covered in the energy graphs. I’d been using a Grafana dashboard to display more detailed energy visualisations including consumption of untracked devices before.
Still a win for Home Assistant to have a big brand like Aqara want to play ball at all.
if they are supporting the current Matter/Thread devices hopefully they will do the same for future devices, especially (if and) when they start to deprecate their Zigbee devices.
Aqara devices can be finicky with non-Aqara devices, especially router devices.
I’ve personally also had much better results with Aqara devices since switching to Zigbee2MQTT and a Sonoff Zigbee stick, I had a lot more dropouts with ZHA and a Conbee II stick.
I have an X220 with an i5-2520M, I don’t use it for gaming but I have briefly played Half-Life 2 with it and it was comfortably playable.
So I would say mid-2000s titles and before will be fine. It really depends on the age the Thinkpad you want is, and the age of the games you want to play.
Have you got any air quality sensors? Particulates, CO2, VOCs, CO, Radon, there’s a while bunch of sensors, and a variety of DIY projects to put them together.
It also has the practical benefit of maybe improving your health.
Seems a pointless endeavour. The open and enterprise sides are so deeply linked, it makes sense that they share a brand.
Separating them only weakens the broader SUSE ecosystem.
Generally you want to the reference material used to improve that first version to be correct though. Otherwise it’s just swapping one problem for another.
I wouldn’t use a textbook that was 52% incorrect, the same should apply to a chatbot.
Seems a hard sell to go subscription on such a niche platform. I wish anyone luck that could challenge the Apple/Android duopoly though.
As an aside, can we get back into desktop cubes again? With all the upheaval in Windows land it’s the sort of eye candy that can win over new Linux users.
Any distro should be fairly stable and supported on an older Thinkpad.
I’m currently using Debian stable on my X220 and it’s rock solid.
Might be worth looking into LoRa for longer range, it’s got quite cheap to play with now.
Using nano as a vim user is a lot less clunky than trying to use vim as a vim non-user though.
Or so I would imagine, all of the vim novices are still too busy trying to exit vim to share their experiences.
A few years ago the hose on our washing machine split and we didn’t realise until water started coming out from under the units. Thankfully damage was minimal but it was a big pain to dry out.
I’ve had some of those Aqara leak sensors in place since as a precaution.
Just remember to change the batteries regularly! Easy to forget them when they are out of sight.